Check your screen for dead pixels.
Run a full-screen color test to spot dead pixels, stuck pixels, and burn-in on any monitor, laptop, tablet, or phone. Takes about a minute.
What Are Dead, Stuck, and Burned-In Pixels?
A dead pixel is a manufacturing defect where a pixel receives no power and stays permanently black, regardless of what's on screen. A stuck pixel is different: it's frozen showing one color because a single subpixel is stuck on, and unlike a dead pixel, it can sometimes be repaired. Screen burn-in is a faint, permanent ghost of an image that was displayed for too long, most common on OLED panels.
This tool cycles your screen through solid colors and other patterns so any of these defects stand out clearly against a flat background.
| What you see | Likely cause |
|---|---|
| A small black dot, the same on every color | Dead pixel |
| A bright red, green, or blue dot that doesn't match the background | Stuck pixel |
| A faint shadow of old content visible on new content | Screen burn-in |
Diagnostic terminology consistent with guidance published by display manufacturers such as Dell and EIZO, and independent review sites like RTINGS.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I test for a dead pixel?
Open the Dead & Stuck Pixel Check and let it fill your screen with red, green, blue, black, white, cyan, magenta, and yellow in turn. On each color, look for a dot that doesn't belong: a dead pixel stays black on every one of them, while a stuck pixel keeps showing the same color throughout. Clean the screen first so a speck of dust isn't mistaken for a defect, and look at the screen straight on in a dimly lit room, since glare hides small flaws.
What's the difference between a dead pixel and a stuck pixel?
A dead pixel receives no power at all, so it stays black whatever is on screen, and it cannot be repaired. A stuck pixel is still powered but frozen — one of its red, green, or blue subpixels is jammed on, so it shows that same bright color against every background. Because a stuck pixel still responds to a signal, rapidly cycling colors over it can sometimes free it. A third case, a hot pixel, is permanently bright white and is far more common on camera sensors than on displays. See dead vs. stuck vs. hot pixels for side-by-side descriptions.
How do I check for screen burn-in?
Run the Burn-in Check, which fills the screen with a static high-contrast pattern, then look for a faint ghost of something that used to be there — a channel logo, a game HUD, the Windows taskbar. Ghosting shows up most clearly over flat mid-tone areas rather than over pure black or white. If you find one, the question that matters is whether it is permanent: true burn-in is uneven OLED wear and will not fade, while temporary image retention clears by itself after a few hours of varied content.
Does this work on phone and laptop screens?
Yes. Everything runs in the browser, so it behaves the same on desktop monitors, laptops, tablets, and phones, and there is nothing to install. On a phone or tablet, switch off auto-brightness and any night-shift or blue-light filter first, because both alter the colors actually being displayed. The Stuck Pixel Fix also needs the screen to stay awake, so raise your sleep timeout before leaving it running.
Can a dead pixel be fixed?
Usually not. A dead pixel gets no power, so there is no signal for software or pressure tricks to act on, and rubbing the panel risks doing real damage. A stuck pixel is the better bet: the Stuck Pixel Fix flashes colors over the spot and sometimes frees it, though it is not guaranteed and is worth giving 10 to 20 minutes. If nothing works, check whether you qualify for a replacement — most brands only replace a panel once it exceeds a set number of defective pixels, compared in the manufacturer policy guide.